Reminiscing

[HEPZIBAH]

Having commented about the Emilio Hotel in another thread, it got me to reminiscing further about my early visits to Luxor.

One of the things I recall is being shown around by a local, struggling to keep up with their pace because I had difficulty coping with the high kerb stones. This was in the general Luxor Temple and Souk area walking from the Corniche

I enjoyed standing at night on the little balcony outside my room, looking down on the busy street, watching all the calleches amassing at the corner down to the right as they turned around to go back down by the side of the temple, hoping that they would pick up a fare at that stage. The traffic noise wasn't a deterrent to staying there but in a strange way was a comfort. You knew that day or night people were there, going about their busy lives. It was still somehow part of the 'foreign exotic fairy tale' of days gone by.
As the area was gradually re-developed, or should I say fairly regularly (or so it seemed) re-developed, it lost much of it's charm to me as a visitor. I missed being able to cut through from the ferry, past the pottery seller and the old police station to the hotel. I missed the comfort of the traffic noise, yes it was still there, but not the same once the new road was put in place. I did not miss the high kerbs though which, although many are still there they thankfully seem fewer, or shall we say the pavements were slightly more pedestrian friendly (at least last time I was there).

What fond thoughts have you got from your earlier visits to Luxor? Between us, we must have a myriad of memories of the various places that we have encountered over the years. We may all share some very similar memories, yet all will be quite personal too.

[Teddyboy]

Keeping up with a local?
I once got Hassan or Hussein (I can never tell them apart now, although I could then) from the Egyptian "Cornar", Chez Omar's, to take me for something in the Egyptian souk. I was surprised that I struggled to keep up with him, even though he was walking more slowly! I eventually figured it out after I had the same problem with another couple of locals. It's all about energy saving to better cope with the heat. They lengthen their steps, not by much, but it's enough to leave the likes of me trailing in the dust!
Mind, they were two rascals. Even so, for quite some time I used to get them to make us a batch of kofta to eat at home, it was very nice.
Sitting on the Emilio balcony in the evening was a delight. Watching Mr Farance's son adjusting new wheel spokes, whilst the old man sat yapping with any and everyone who would pass by.
Trying to keep out of Showcat's way, so that he couldn't insist on us visiting his "Night Club" downstairs.
Or lying on the bed at midnight, starkers, waiting and hoping for the A/C to work again in order to get the temperature down below 100 degrees.
Happy, long-gone days!

[HEPZIBAH]

Oh yes! I'd forgotten the bike shop opposite.
I also enjoyed looking in the window opposite -slightly depended on what floor I was on - and looking in on a couple of young goldsmiths. I couldn't see what they were making, but I used to imagine all sorts of designs, probably being prepared for bridal wear or dowry.

[A-Four]

I really do remember this area so well, the moment a tourist left this hotel you entered into the full life of Upper Egypt, no matter which route one would take, each would be truly remarkabe .Years ago I would have a coffee on the outside of that hotel served by a quite old gentleman, always dressed in a hotel style. I once informed him of life there long ago when he was young, he was quite impressed, in truth I was telling him of my grand fathers time there, as he had told me. I have not stayed at this hotel, but I can say which ever road you would take from it would lead you on a magical journey. The old gentleman who had the bicycle shop lived above it with his family, and one of his sons had a taxi, often parked very near the Emillio.

It's some years ago now, but when the authorities closed the road that lead to the ferry, the local council approved a foot bridge in a valencian style over the Avenue of sphinx, to link with the Etap shopping bazaars, but unfortunately central government stopped this idea. The policy from what I understand was that the tourists would not want to enter the area to the east of the city, in other words the open air museum would not be part of the eastern side of the Avenue of Sphinx, though many on here would not realise this split the Coptic community in half and would have to suffer quite a distance to see friends and family, let alone schools and church.

[Who2]

My 1st hotel in Luxor was the ????? flea pit, I moved across the road the next day to the Emilio,
which became our place of choice for many a year.
Lovely staff with Mr Emil counting his money through his darkened office window.

Watching the fights from the roof and those days sitting out front with a menu hiding the stela's.
George's bike shop told us the kids from the west bank would hire 1 bike ride it all round the WB,
but always left them next to the ferry, where as George would have to cross over to retrieve it weeks later.

Watching the family weight training on their roof, as we smoked and drank around the pool.
When Mr Emil visited Heathrow he place his briefcase full of money on the floor....'bedong !
Gone in a flash, that's why it's known as 'Thiefrow..qed..

Damned if I can remember the name of the flea pit opposite, they had a pool table ,I bought them
new cues,chalk and tips from London once.
My 1st Taxi driver from the airport Samir, upon my asking "has your uncle got a hotel ?
Is still a good friend has risen up through the airport them even sending him to Mecca once..

Thanks for the memories..

Ps: i'm sure A4 used to wear a pith helmet!

[Who2]

Ps: Reminiscing, Umbuba was 50le then, this morning 280le inc baksheesh. Umbuba gas bottle refill....

[John Landon]

My first memories of Luxor are from that area of the city.

We first stayed at the Mercure inn, a family run hotel with an enchanting little garden and kidney shaped pool with a huge palm tree covered in fairy lights.

The grassed area on the corner between Temple Street and the main road in where the winter palace resides, there was a shop and an old man and his grandson Hassan who sold water, ciggies and just about anything else you wanted that was not on display from his modest stall.
We bacame good friends over the years.

Another friend owned a house close to the then unpaved area by the mosque who's house was taken from him and demolished to uncover the Sphynxes.

The Emilio had not been built then, and that street it resided in, Youssef Hassan Street was in a pretty rough condition.
The Emilio was a very dreary looking hotel from the outside at first, but the year after they revamped the front facade and it looked so much better. We would on occassion seek refuge from the heat if the day in the reception and also go up onto the roof terrace and take in the views in the evening and watch the world go by.

The year after, Youssef Hassan Street was dug up and resurfaced, as was the grassland opposite Snack Time and Macdonalds and the granite slabs and seats were installed there. Granite seats were not great for sitting on in the heat of the mid day sun..

I somehow preferred the grassland.

This is where I first met Shakespeare, outside Sindbads, a loveable old rouge, and was a fascinating man to chat with, while I never went on his feluka, I was always happy to support him with drinks and food, and a packet of Marlboroughs each time I saw him, and drop him a few quid just for the absolute pleasure of his company.

Back in the day, I would meet up with Stan at Sindbads, as I would take deliveries of photographic equipment at my house and then bring them to Egypt and give him the goods there.

It was the only place I ever saw Stan on the east bank, as usually we would see each other in Fayrous, or sheherazade, gizera.
These places have remained the same through the years and still offer a relaxing old Egypt experience, much to my delight.

By about 2008 - 2009 we had migrated our stays in Luxor to the Movenpick, due to the Mercure Inn / Swiss Inn closing.
(We had stayed at the New Winter palace, which was OK, and we lasted one night at the then, much over rated Sonesta st George.

Pleased to say that it is far better now than it was in the early 2000's.)


Most days while staying at the Move pick I always visited that area on Temple street and spend time at Sindbads and Snack time, etc, and then on occasion jump on the public ferry to head over to the WB for the rest of the day.
There was something special about the Temple Street area going down towards the Souk and the other way round the corner to the winter palace.

It all changed slowly over the years It's not the same without that grassland on the corner where the old fountain was, and the Mercure inn, Sindbads and easy access to visit the Luxor Hotel, which I often enjoyed walking around.
But it's nice to see that there is now an area for the horses to rest in under the shaded stalls that have been erected.

Back in the day I had one or 2 unexplained experiences around there, part of the magic of visiting Luxor I always assumed. Same as in certain places on the west bank.
I feel that energy has moved on now perhaps.

Change is of course inevitable, and for the most part I can see the benefit after a couple of visits this last year. It was all a bit of a shock at first, but Luxor was never going to stand still, and there are still those little secret corners I enjoy, us a couple of new ones I found.

Luxor and it's residents do seem to be dojg a lot better in many ways than they did when I first visited. And that's good.

[HEPZIBAH]

@John Landon You say The Emilio wasn't built when you first were visiting Luxor. I'm now wondering when it was built, because it always felt quite old and established when I started staying there, probably in the early 2000s.

I understand it was built in two sections, so a smaller hotel - the bit where the bar was probably being the reception at that time - and then the second area being added later. I do recall the orange cladding being added to it. I never liked it, preferring it when it was neutral and stone coloured. I was also concerned about the fire safety aspect of it, especially in light of that horrendous fire in the UK some years back and the subsequent de-cladding of buildings here.

I knew the Emilio was once the haunt of many expats, but I was never aware of them when I stayed - not that I was in the hotel that much. Certainly, there were regular visitors who would be chattering about meeting up with various expats, often Sinbads being the venue of choice.

You mention SnackTime. I remember when expats in particular were eagerly awaiting it's opening. For years it it was a good place to go and grab something to eat and, if you were lucky, sit at one of the tables on the little balcony overlooking the temple. I remember taking a young Egyptian women there as it was such a treat for her. We couldn't keep the treat to ourselves so loaded ourselves up with tubs of Movenpik ice cream to take home for her family. Sadly, the last couple of times I visited were not good. Overall standards were low so I didn't return.

Of course, I can't think of SnackTime and that general area without remembering the Tshirt man. He was so annoyingly persistent! Goodness only knows how many miles he clocked up each day just trotting backwards and forwards along that stretch trying to sell his wares. Most vendors would give up reasonably easily, especially if they spotted another 'victim' but not him.

[HEPZIBAH]

@Who2 Was the hotel, more or less opposite the Emilio, that you can't remember the name of, the Venus hotel? I seem to recall it was known more for its nickname than it's correct name. I had walked past it numerous times over the years without realising it was actually there.