As I See It - 2024.

[A-Four]

It's been some years now since I was last in Egypt, as Bennu on here reminded me, so here it is what I discovered. I arrived at Hurgarda airport, for the first time. The queue to get through passport control was rather horrendous, but like most people I refused to pay $25 to be fast tracked. The duty free had no prices, though thought this might be in anticipation that the LE was soon to devalue.

I stayed for two night at a small hotel in the north of Hurgarda, somewhat near the old town, very near the main central library. Also I was very pleased to see really good facilities for the average Egyptian families there, whether on holiday or not. A beautiful new mosque and Coptic church added to my delight. I took a very long walk all the way throughout the central area of Hurgarda, I came across a number of what once were very busy hotels now closed, a large number of building projects, though seem to have come to nothing as yet. The centre was very busy with tourists who seem to all be staying at all inclusive hotels, though bars seemed to be quite busy and good food in plentiful supply. I discovered that like before, most people who work there are infact are from everywhere else in Egypt but not Hurgarda. The place seems quite honest with tourist, a taxi anywhere around the city is no more than LE 50.

I payed $10 for my Go-Bus ticket and a limo to take me to the bus station, (I know some will say I paid through the nose for that, but well I'm on holiday in Hurgarda, but not in Luxor, when I get there.) All went well, though I must admit a five and a half hour journey, seemed a bit longer than it was all those years ago. Arrived in Luxor about 6p.m., so I arrive in the old place, I'm wondering what I will discover,...........will write up more soon.

[A-Four]

I was expecting to arrive at some sort of a bus station, but no we were allowed to get off the 'Go-Bus' at the road side of one of the busiest traffic areas in Luxor a few hundred yards from the rail station. All the passengers getting off were suddenly surrounded by a load of taxi drivers. I asked how much to the Iberotel, 500LE came the answer, I stood back. Three small groups of Chinese tourist, were told a similar answer, immediately each with a phone in one hand and wheeled suitcase in another, the simply walked away and totally ignoring all other drivers. I was going to learn more about this later. After speaking a few words of Arabic, my journey cost 50LE. My hotel was fine, even with a road facing balcony I did not mind, when you have lived on the West Bank you tend to appreciate the sunrise more so than the sunset.

Breakfast at this hotel reminded me of the old days of the international run hotels in this city, no one could possibly complain. It is here that I encountered one of the groups of Chinese tourist I met on the bus. They informed me that they had already checked on their phones the distance from the bus to the hotel, no way were they going to pay such a large sum, so walked. During my stay I was to notice this attitude many times as many Chinese people arriving from either the bus or rail station. Having been to various parts of China over many years, I learnt that this race do not argue, so many suprisingly speak English very well, and are very different from the Chinese people who live in the U.K., which are called nationalists Chinese. (In other words...Taiwanese.)

Much has changed over the year, mostly for the better as far as tourism is concerned the main drag from almost south being the old Sheraton all the way up to Karnack, gone are the old shuftie road sweepers, replaced by dedicated worker, they even have a couple of sweeper vehicles. The place is very clean, though I have to admit, little has changed on the back streets. Many of the shops and restaurants in the Sheraton area are no more, which is quite sad really, though between the ISIS Hotel upto Iberotel life seems to be much the same, though I did notice a number of the once European run cafes and restaurants are no more.

Between the Iberotel and Luxor Museum again the new Corniche is fantastic, very well constructed and certainly enjoyed not just by the usual tourists, but locals alike, gone are the hassle people replaced by the odd police offices, and a few plain clothes offices I noticed. The lower area of the Corniche is a delight, bars and restaurants, not just for tourists, but also Egyptian families enjoying the warm evening weather, and a few familiar faces I recognised from long ago. Here I was to learn of a few changes while I have been away, that did surprise me......Will write up more soon.

[crewmeal]

Since 2015 I’ve stayed at the Iberotel and found it a good hotel and yes I paid extra for a Nile view which I think is worth it. Nothing nice sitting on your balcony with a G&T watching the sun go down. Yes I’ve also noted the changes to the area and gone are the decent restaurants that were around the Sheraton area. However I still get hassled by Caleche boys begging me to ride with them. The one thing I’ve learnt is never ever take a wallet out of your back pocket, I stuff my notes either in my sock or down the side of my shorts.

Generally over 8 years of visiting I’ve found the corniche a welcome change being clean and tidy. Cleaners work early in the morning ensuring it’s kept tidy. The back streets however are still bad with rubbish everywhere. (No worse than some streets in the UK) I’m hoping to visit and stay for 3 weeks in September and will be interested to see how the devaluation of the LE has changed the life of Egypt in general.

[A-Four]

Many thanks for your comments so far crewmeal, with regards to caleche chaps in this area, they are always on the look out for new tourists who have no idea of the town. The best way to avoid these such characters is to simply always walk against the on coming traffic, I have not yet seen such a vehicle able to back up. Any stationed outside an hotel will rarely move for a short journey. However the old gentleman and his carridge often seen stationed outside St Joseph Hotel I have known for many a year, and is a wealth of information that is second to none. Having said this, most such vehicles I saw were young and inexperienced handlers of a horse and carridge, sorry to say.

[A-Four]

To sum up on how I found present day Luxor, in truth it has become that 'three day event' I predicted many years ago, but saying that I did see many tourists taking independent walks around the main town, though in truth most belong to tour groups. Most of the people who were staying at my hotel seemed to change every few days. Many of the Russian and Chinese groups I came across, had very special deals, I suppose similar to those we, the Europeans had in times gone by, though most seemed to be travelling from Cairo all the say down to Asswan. Almost every morning I saw buses loading up luggage and passengers for their onward trips, then in the afternoon a new group arrived.

For those of us who know the place well, it seems a few changes have taken place, 'the gardens' in front of the old Luxor Hotel, are almost no more. A great wall has now been built by the council which was done just before President Sisi visited for the opening of The Avenue, to cover up what some would regard as an undisable view. However Hammesis place has a removable gate, and business is as usual from late afternoon onwards. It seems (the lawyer) Shnuda has the ear of the judiciary,.....for the moment.

I came across a few of the old ex-pats, I was informed that many are being faced with very high new rental agreements, also a number are being asked to leave, being that some landlords mostly on the West Bank, are seeking to advertise their properties on the Air b&b website, not sure that will be successful, as I have checked their site, and see there are an awful lot in various conditions, and quite entertaining just to look through them. However I do know of one certain Irish man in Luxor who has the right idea, and wish him well.

Overall, Luxor has withstood the many changes, and certainly allowed inclusiveness of Egyptian families to enjoy life whether on holiday or residents of the city, it's much cleaner in the tourist areas than it ever was before. The restored Avenue is quite impressive, though in my opinion it certainly has divided the town, especially in the area around the Amillio Hotel. I was informed by a well connected Egyptian in Luxor that there are further plans to be put in place by the government, but these are for tourism, but little or nothing for the Egyptian people who live there. Let's hope that in the future some of the vast revenue that enters that city will stay in the city, which it never did in the past.

One thing I never been able to understand and that is that throughout all the towns and cities I have been to in Egypt, I have seen such fantastic wonderful central mosques, yet with all the wealth that has been through Luxor's hands in the past 100 years such a place has yet to be built, I have often wondered why its taking so long.

[Teddyboy]

"I have seen such fantastic wonderful central mosques, yet with all the wealth that has been through Luxor's hands in the past 100 years such a place has yet to be built, I have often wondered why its taking so long."

Perhaps this is because the local folk are perfectly happy with their vast number of smaller (some barely noticeable to a stranger) Mosques, in that they are so easy to access from wherever they may find themselves when the call to prayer comes? Also, the locals around our Luxor home seem to really appreciate the ongoing sense of fellowship with well loved friends and neighbours, let alone family groups.

There are many similar situations at home in England. My own small (pit and quarry) village (though now under the 'auspices' of a much larger unitary authority!) used to have 1 Church of England, but 5 Methodist Chapels. The main difference wasn't necessarily the oddities of various denominations, but the fact that the local members of the Methodist congregations would not give up their independence to a system which was imposed upon them by their 'betters'!

[Who2]

Church Chapels nice, but how many Pubs ? you need a pub especially if one is fighting the methodists.imho..

Ps: If it was me I'd name a beer The John Wesley Special Brew....


Beaten to the punch again....
"great minds.....

[Who2]

Easter Sunday Nick Cave and his son came into Cafe Kick today,
Fascinating as the market was dead quite.

I've always had a soft spot for him he has had a tragic life full of sadness....

Just to cheer me up my mate Frank came in....



Ps: That's his 'happy face he had his balls off last tuesday....

[A-Four]

Perhaps this is because the local folk are perfectly happy with their vast number of smaller (some barely noticeable to a stranger) Mosques, in that they are so easy to access from wherever they may find themselves when the call to prayer comes? Also, the locals around our Luxor home seem to really appreciate the ongoing sense of fellowship with well loved friends and neighbours, let alone family groups.

I think you are missing the main point here Teddyboy, Islam acts very differently than the various Christian denomination, they are not just centres for prayer, but also to cover various aspects of the family life. A young couple who are from two separate parts of a large town or city, like Luxor will attend separate mosques, when the question of dowry comes to be discussed, each mosque may question different intentions, that is where the central mosque plays the part of arbitration.

This service is not just for this purpose, many marital disputes are settled through this method, including divorce, and especially the rights of a wife and children, long before the man can marry again. This is just an example of the work of central mosques in Egypt, though there are many other aspects of disputes that are settled this way, without going through the expensive court legal system. That is why a central mosque is so important in a city of so many mosque who have only the interest of their local flock.

President Sisi is trying to make attempts to curtail the responsibilities of central mosques, because of the differing political rhetoric allowed in mosques during the so called revolution, that should have been controlled by each central mosque, but was not, and especially so in Luxor at that time.

[Teddyboy]

Thank you so much for that A-Four. Every day is a learning day!
If I read you correctly, it seems a bit like the Churches in England, in some respects. In my somewhat limited experience, CofE hierarchy seeks to control the local congregations via the Bishops and their cathedral officers. Methodism (I held office in my local Chapel and Circuit for around 35 years) is also similar, in that Superintendent Ministers (now, but no so much in my days) seem to think that they and their fellow Ministers can change the whole ethos of local worship, belief etc. (What am I talking about, they don't "seem to think", they know!!)
It transpires that the "organised Church" which now dominates Christian worship and fellowship in England is, slowly but surely, turning into an authoritarian entity, much like Islam seems to be to the outsider?