Highclere Castle

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Highclere Castle

Post by HEPZIBAH »

On Bank Holiday Monday I was able to spend time with friends and visit Highclere Castle. I recall going to Craft Fayers in the grounds many years ago, but had no recollection of going in the house, and yet I also had a vague memory, of seeing the Egyptian artefacts.

My friend booked our tickets months ago as the house isn't open that often and, since the popularity of the television series Downton Abbey which is filmed there, it is now a very popular visitors destination. Our tickets were limited to morning visiting only, which meant we had to visit the House and Egyptian Exhibition before 1pm, after which we could spend as much time as we liked in the grounds. We thought we'd arrived in plenty of time, and certainly well before opening time, but there was already a queue waiting to get in to the house so we were advised to visit the Exhibition first.

It's fair to say that I don't have that much interest in Egyptian artefacts in as much as that, like many historical objects and places, I can appreciate their creation, artistic impression, and the fact that they may have survived for an extremely long time (OK an understatement when thinking about things from ancient Egypt), but I was happy to walk around and see the exhibits that Lord Carnarvon had plundered...erm saved and treasured... from Egypt, and the replicas too. However, I would have expected the room guardians/guides to have had some knowledge about what was there and be able to answer, what I thought were basic, simple questions.

One of my friends got into conversation with one of the guides that was working in the Egyptian Exhibition area. The lady asked if my friend had ever been to Egypt, which she had a number of times in the past when she worked in Saudi and would take her off duty times to visit various parts of Egypt. As I came along my friend pointed out that I had visited Luxor many times but not for a year or so (my last visit was Christmas 2016). 'Oh' said the lady. 'I suppose you don't go now because of the troubles.' Well, as you can imagine, I was a bit unsure of how to answer this so I just asked her what troubles she was referring to. She couldn't really answer me. I then decided to turn the tables and asked if she had ever visited. 'Of course' said she. 'I went on a SAGA Nile Cruise x years ago.' (x = I can't remember how many years she said). 'We had guides who looked after us ever so well and they escorted us everywhere. We felt very safe with them as we walked around the sites. We would get straight of the boat onto a bus so we didn't get any hassle from the beggars.' Well by this time I was a little unsure how to respond because I was a bit dumbfounded. In the event I told her that as she couldn't tell me what 'troubles' she was referring to, I couldn't address that, but as I had been to Luxor regularly and travelled around the East and West bank alone, made friends with many local people and spent a great deal of time in their homes. It was quite possible to feel safe and see more to anywhere if you just allow yourself.

One thing that really saddened me as I looked at the photographs and newspaper clippings referring to Carnarvon, Carter et al. with their digs and discoveries, was the fact that at no point are the teams of local Egyptians ever mentioned for the work they put in. Of course, many were just poor labourers, but others would have been more involved between the two C's and those poor guys doing the dirty work. I shouldn't have been surprised by that, but it still left me feeling sad.

I came away from the Egyptian Exhibition feeling disappointed, but I did realise that I hadn't seen these particular artefacts before so I must have been thinking of another grand house that I've visited in the past.

The house was still very busy when we went around. Of course, since it became a film set for Downton Abbey, much was focused on the television series - large photographs displayed in the rooms, so that devotees could place the fictional characters rather than the real family into locations. The rooms that were open to the public were interesting, but trying to view the upper level rooms was a nightmare, following step by step in a long queue, concerned that if you stopped at a bedroom door too long to take things in then you would hold the queue up.

Highclere Castle is relatively local to me but I've just not got around to visiting before now. I'm glad I went but it's not somewhere that I feel the need to return to. Been there, done that, but couldn't afford the tee shirt.

Has anyone else been? What were your thoughts on the place? If you are interested in Egyptology, what did you think of the Egypt Exhibition?


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Re: Highclere Castle

Post by Horus »

I tried to visit a couple of years ago whilst in that neck of the woods, but as you said it is (or was then) usually closed to the public.
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Re: Highclere Castle

Post by HEPZIBAH »

I think it has always been fairly limited visiting, but these days it feels like the visiting is on the back of the big money maker that is being a film location. I think they also do corporate events and weddings throughout the year.

(Can you tell I was underwhelmed.)

We made a return visit to Sandham Memorial Chapel on the way back. A small National Trust property.
Worth the detour.
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Re: Highclere Castle

Post by Yildez »

Hepzibah, is that the chapel with the wonderful Stanley Spencer (???) murals?
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Re: Highclere Castle

Post by HEPZIBAH »

Yildez wrote:Hepzibah, is that the chapel with the wonderful Stanley Spencer (???) murals?
Yes Yildez. That's the one. I used to drive up and down the A34 so regularly and see the sign for it but it was never at a good time to make the short detour to go and look. I finally made the effort last summer to visit enroute to another National Trust property. I've now been three times with different friends and each time I've seen things in the paintings that I've not noticed before. Of course, the light conditions each visit have been different so that has altered the effect too.

For any one that has not been there, it is worth a visit if you are in the area.
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Re: Highclere Castle

Post by Yildez »

Many years ago I used to live in Southampton, and visited several times. I shall look them up via Mr Google and enjoy them again!
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Re: Highclere Castle

Post by HEPZIBAH »

Yildez, have you been to Watts Chapel near Guildford? I have a feeling that would be of interest to you too. So far I've only made it to the chapel and not had time to explore the actual Artist's Village and Gallery.

https://www.wattsgallery.org.uk/about-u ... ts-chapel/
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Re: Highclere Castle

Post by Yildez »

No I haven't, I don't really enjoy the Arts and Crafts movement, not my thing at all. Although I make an exception for Rennie MacIntosh!!! And the paintings of Ford Maddox Brown! Looks an interesting building though.
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Re: Highclere Castle

Post by Brian Yare »

I visited Highclere some years ago. I have to admit to being somewhat underwhelmed by the Egyptian room in the basement. But overall it was a good day out, and there is an excellent pub in the next village serving Wadworth's 6X.
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