The Aswan Trip

[carrie]

I asked if anyone had travelled from Luxor to Aswan in either a felucca or a motor boat because a friend and I really fancied doing it. After some thought the felucca idea was abandoned, didn't know if there was going to be wind and didn't fancy being becalmed for a couple of days. So the motor boat looked the best bet. We asked around and the general consensus was that it would cost us about 6500le found a very reliable captain and went through all the nitty gritty. Meals provided how they would be cooked, sleeping arrangements etc. Then we had to go and get the licence to go, now we didn't get a no impossible from the police but a lot of obstacles seemed suddenly to arise. By which time we were both beginning to have second thoughts especially about the toilet arrangements. So the idea was dropped and we travelled to Aswan by train.
The train was great, travelled first class 90le each way, second class 51le, the train was spotless they even had a guy with a mop who went in the toilet every time someone used it, soap and toilet paper. And the train had travelled from Cairo, jolly cold though with the air con. A very smart uniformed man came round at regular intervals to ask if anyone wanted tea, coffee, food etc.
We had made arrangements to stay on the west bank at the Nubian village, beautiful, quiet and spectacular scenery. Lovely walks along the river bank and even found a nice beach where we could swim. Food great. The only complaint was the souk in Aswan, gosh the hassle. Living in Luxor so long I very rarely get any hassle but being a newbie in Aswan I found what it was like to be a tourist. We went for a coffee in the souk at a very ordinary coffee shop, we asked how much the coffee was first, you must all know that look that comes over the face of the owners, whilst he is working out how much he can charge us, 35le and if we wanted milk with the nescafe it would be 40le each. Forget it. Last straw was the caleche, I hate caleches, but no taxis available at the time. We wanted to be taken to the Egypt Air office then could cross the road and go to the landing where the boat we had arranged would be coming for us. Only five minutes down the corniche, how much 20 pounds OK in we jump.
Then it starts do we want to go anywhere else after Egypt Air, no! Do you want me to wait? No. Why you go to Egypt Air? Where you go after Egypt Air. We were tired and hot and he was getting very close to being told in no uncertain terms to shut up and just drive. Finally arrived at Egypt Air gave him the 20le, "what's this?" 20le, no 20 dollars each. Honestly we were in the caleche 5 minutes no more. He got his 20le and we walked off.
Apart from that we had a good time and loved it on the West bank.
I am very grateful to WI and her husband and his friends for the advice, also I don't remember who it was who raised the question about the loo but thanks to them too. Never yet been on a Nile Cruise but my friend and I have decided we will go next time she visits but on a nice cruise boat.

[Yildez]

I think it might have been me who raised the issue of toilets Carrie - always a concern of mine, since my knee replacement ops made squatting behind a bush impossible!

[Horus]

Carrie thanks for your informative post, nice to get someone’s impressions of a place other than Luxor. Your account of finding a beach up at Aswan and having a swim reminded me of some photos I took years ago, maybe even at the same place. I dug them out but I had to scan them into my PC so the quality is not so good. Also be prepared for people trying to tell you you could have contracted Bilharzia from swimming in the Nile, usually from people who know little about the disease.

[carrie]

As your facing the river a little to the right of your third photo is where we swam.

[Dusak]

I've been to the Nubian village a few times, never any hassle. Those beach spots always looked inviting, and every time we went past they were well attended by locals enjoying a splash about. The best parts of my visits was to enjoy the motor boat trips up the narrow river through the lush greenery and overhanging weeping willow type trees, eventually coming out nearly opposite the village for the visit. but only available when the water is at its highest. It was always 100Le return, but I suppose its a lot more now. We got the boat at the same spot every visit, next to a floating restaurant that served the most horrendous food ever to pass human lips.

[carrie]

No we had no hassle there Dusak it was over the other side in the souk and the caleche driver, last time I visited I found some lovely black pebbles and spent ages rolling them down the dunes into the river only to find out later that the black pebbles were camel droppings, I did resist this time.

[Horus]

The best parts of my visits was to enjoy the motor boat trips up the narrow river through the lush greenery and overhanging weeping willow type trees

Cue more photos for Dusak, these of the motor boats going through the reeds and overhanging tree.

[Horus]

@ Carrie
I have similar memories of our swim, but it was the bits of dry camel dung slowly rehydrating as they passed by our faces as we swam. I became curious of these little plant like clumps that were sailing past and drifting into the shallows, so I grabbed a couple of them!

[Winged Isis]

Where exactly did you stay carrie? One of the Ana Kato properties??

[carrie]

We stayed at a small place called The Nubian Dream, very clean simple rooms, no telly (thank God), no background music just the sound of the desert and river. Not to be recommended for those who don't like stairs, about 30 quite steep up to the property.

[Winged Isis]

I looked at that online a number of years back, maybe even just before the revolution, but as I couldn't find any reviews I decided it warranted a visit before using it or recommending it to clients.

We did that with Ana Kato (but no time to do your place), staying at No. 1 and being taken to visit No.3. Basic small, simple but very clean rooms, bar fridge, air con, but no TV . but friendly staff. Meals outside dining only (at No.1) very simple and limited but this was about 2014 I think, with tourism at a very low ebb, and we went expecting things to be running at a basic level. A lovely location as right on the water, and something different to offer from the multi-room behemoths in Aswan. Perfect for one or so nights, if not requiring luxury but desiring quiet. They have motor and rowing boats for your use too.